After an 18-hour layover in Shanghai (courtesy of a $500 roundtrip from SF via China Southern Airlines), I got to my empty hostel in Ginza and immediately scrapped my itinerary.
I had initially planned to bullet train my way through Kyoto and Osaka afterwards, but a 3-day trip to Tokyo quickly turned into a week and a half. As a city kid, there was too much to see.
This list comprises friends’ tips, the best of the travel guides out there (shoutout to Monocle), and things I stumbled upon.
Ginza/Tsukiji
Ginza is basically a blade runner version of the Upper East Side, except with good restaurants. Like, maybe the best in the world. All of the high-end sushi joints are here because of the proximity to the tuna market at Tsukiji (update: was close by, no longer) but there are also some cheaper gems.
Cafe de l’ambre – An old-school coffee spot that could never exist in the US. The 100+ year old owner still roasts his own beans in small batches. People also smoke inside which, while unpleasant, is kind of a refreshing throwback.
Kagari – I know, ramen this, ramen that, but Kagari is so different than any other type of ramen I’ve tried. The thing to get is the tori paitan, kind of like a lighter tonkotsu but with chicken, seasonal vegetables, and FLOWERS. There’s usually a line out front before they open at 11am. Don’t be confused by the soba sign out fron. (UPDATE: I think they moved to the subway station, but still in Ginza)
Bar High Five – Do you have $25 burning a hole in your docker chinos? This bar is a good place to spend it on a *single* cocktail. No menu, just tell them what you like, your astrological sign, and they make something. I got a Very Serious Riff on a Negroni. Afterwards, they drew me a map of good bars in the area and then the woman put my jacket on and bowed to me at a 90 degree angle. The owner has an Elvis thing going on.
Sushi Kyubei – Unless you speak Japanese and have the foresight of an urban planner, it’s probably already too late to make a reservation at one of the top 3-michelin temples (Jiro, Sawada, Azabu Yukimura, etc.). Kyubei is a steal at around $90 for an omakase lunch, especially considering the relative ease of getting a spot. There are definitely some tourists because the word had got out. Expect you will be placed with a sushi chef who speaks some English, but it’s probably the best value around. I sat next to a couple from Mexico City and translated for them (sea urchin? erizos del mar!). This was one of my big splurges and was easily worth it. Think they open at 11:30am.
Tsukiji market – This is a must. Again, if you don’t, it’s been a good ride, but time to hit the road. The tuna market opens at 2:30/3am (check the schedule) and you need to be one of the first 125 guests (something like that). You will see some awesome tuna, the auction, and then you can hit up the outer market for sushi, food presents, etc. I wouldn’t recommend hiring a guide unless they have a good connect at the market. They are also moving soon, so double check the schedule. (UPDATE: moved to a new site)
Tsujiki Sushiko – Solid sushi chain. Specials for 2500 yen that are good value. I think the original is in the outer market of Tsukiji.
Sushi Dai – Another sushi bar near Tsujiki market. It’s supposedly the best in that area but it’s always packed.
Star Bar – More fancy cocktails in a super small basement bar, noticing a theme perhaps? Star Bar is one of the OG high-end cocktail bars in Tokyo. They supposedly pioneered that crazy cocktail shake that all the good Japanese bartenders do.
Bird Land – Alas, I couldn’t get in here but this is one of the top places in Tokyo for yakitori. I believe it’s tasting menu only and conveniently located right next to Jiro in a train station.
Jiro – I’ve heard mixed things. It takes forever to get a reservation and supposedly the meal lasts 30 minutes. Fun fact: I waited outside and took a picture of the chef when the sign explicitly said not to.
Bar Tender – Another serious bar, recommended by the folks at Bar High Five.
Nenohi – Knife shop in outer market of Tsukiji. They sell their knives in the US, some of the best in the world. It’s open until 3pm, but double check hours.
Shimokitazawa
Hipster mecca with tons of thrift stores, etc. I stayed here but a bit out of the way. Makes Williamsburg look like the Marina.
Bear Pond Espresso – Hyped up coffee bar with a super thick chocolatey espresso (supposedly they only make 20 a day, no idea why). No photos. Surprised they let me in.
Shibuya
Teenage neon paradise of food, bars, entertainment. Home of the world’s busiest intersection. you can find anything you want to eat here, or any type of night life. Daikanyama is a very cool sub-hood.
Tokyu Hands – Gasp! A token non-food-related entry. This is a massive five-floor art-themed department store that reminds me a bit of Pearl Paint in New York. It has everything. Socks. Tents. Schmattas of beautiful fabric. Hundreds of fancy pens.
Daikanyama T Site – The greatest bookstore in the world, bar none. Check out the lounge on the top floor. Please scatter my ashes there.
Okura – An indigo-themed store. Treat yourself to a $350 dollar indigo jacket because that is exactly what I did.
Fu-unji – Hyped tsukemen ramen place. Second to Rokurinsha in my book. Helluva line.
Tomigaya (basically Shibuya)
Hipster mecca with lots of architecture studios and design firms. Cool place to blow one’s inheritance on serious fashun.
Fuglen – Hear me out. This is a…Norwegian coffee shop decked out with incredible Scandi midcentury modern furniture serving very serious java. They open as a bar at night and their drinks are quite good. Think, carrot negroni and a burdock-infused whiskey drink. Scatter my ashes here.
Unagi Yoshino – This fella has been grilling eel for 30 years. Get the unagi donburi (ceramic pot of rice topped with eel grilled over coals).
Sendagaya (basically Shibuya)
Big Love – Hipster record store that also has a little beer bar attached
Be a Good Neighbor Coffee – Good java, what more can you ask for.
Tas yard – Nice scenester cafe that has decent food (good curry, etc.).
Shinjuku
Times-Square-y. This is where the robot restaurant is, and a lot of the more touristy nightlife. i.e. red light district.
Robot Restaurant – A profoundly weird place. Super touristy duh, and kinda pricey ($60) but I think it’s worth it.
Bar Benfiddich – Tough to find bar known for recreating all of these esoteric liquors like absinthe. The owner is my kind of hombre.
Bar Gen Yamamoto – VSB (very serious cocktail bar) that does tasting menus with crazy fresh fruit.
Asakusa
Big tourist street with a lot of souvenirs and snack foods. Stayed at the Khaosan capsule hostel which was pretty decent. Also the riverside capsule hotel which was a bit seedy but totally fine – interesting experience.
Namiki Yabusoba – This is an old school soba place that has been here for 100+ years. I went here twice. The first time I brought shame upon my family by sliding the shoji panel door open the wrong way and everyone turned around and looked at me. But then you take your shoes off and you sit cross-legged on the tatami mats and you eat your cold soba with seaweed and drink your cold Orion and it’s really nice.
Sugita – A place that does one thing really well. In this case, pork tonkatsu (fried pork cutlets, not ramen). The chefs dress in white jackets and they fry exclusively in copper pots.
Ueno
Check out the Kappabashi market. Kind of like Bowery in NYC with a bunch of kitchen supply places.
Kappabashi Dori – There are two knife stores that are a block away from each other (think one is called kamasa).
Union Commerce – A kitchen store with good coffee stuff. They also have a knife store down the street.
Chiyoda
Ritzy part of town with a 5th avenue feel to it.
Tori Yoshi – This was one of my best meals in Tokyo. It’s a high-end izakaya serving really good tsukune and this mind-bending stick called a lantern which is chicken liver with a chicken yolk dangling off the end. Not sure how they pull that off. Boy they treat them chickens right.
Campbelltoun Loch – Bar known for their scotch collection.
Echire – My understanding is that a French butter company opened a patisserie/croissant place in a fancy Tokyo neighborhood. Beware of the INSANE lines. Like, comically long. Like 100+ people in line on a Tuesday morning at 11am in the freezing rain long.
Rokurinsha Tokyo – This is a tsukemen ramen place (you dunk the noodles into a gravy-like condensed broth which is served separately) under Tokyo station. Imagine if the Sbarros in Penn Station happened to serve world-class pizza. Wouldn’t that be wonderful? One of my top two ramen places in the city.
Matsuri – If you’re taking the Shinkansen elsewhere, try this place inside of Tokyo Station for a bento. I had cured mackerel sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves. So very civilized.