I lived in Paris for a year in 2010. I subsisted mostly on baguette tradition, canned sardines, and ratatouille, but I also made it my beeswax to scour the city in search of the best food.
This list is a good reflection of that hunt, and I’ve done my best to update it periodically based on what I see on the world wide web. Anything with an asterisk is a must! You can also use this nifty Google Map.
Casual places
L’As du Falaffel*
34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004
Hey, some tourist traps are good! If you find yourself in the Marais (and you will), this is kinda a required stop. Closed on Saturday!
Breizh Café*
109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
An import from Brittany, this is the best crêperie in Paris. Known for their savory buckwheat galettes and excellent ciders.
L’Avant Comptoir*
3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006
Hors d’oeuvres bar run by Yves Camdeborde, the chef who is credited with creating the whole “Bistronomy” movement (great food in a casual setting, crazy, I know). He’s opened up a few new iterations (see below), but the concept is more or less the same: standing room bar, small plates, great wines. You can make a whole meal out of this (boquerones, croquettes with iberico ham, etc.) or just do an apéro and head off to the next spot.
L’Avant Comptoir de la Marché
14 Rue Lobineau, 75006
L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer
3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006
You should probably make a reservation now
Septime
80 Rue de Charonne, 75011
Have heard great things about this place, and it’s become a required stop since I left the city. Chef is Bernard Grabaut who is now a bit of an empire builder (Septime La Cave, Clamato). The food is pretty striking–it reminds me of Contra or Estela in NYC with lots of monochrome plating, concentric circles on the plate, and clever flavor combinations. Probably one of the tougher reserations in the city.
Clamato
80 Rue de Charonne, 75011
More casual sister restaurant to Septime. Good for lunch.
Clown Bar
114 Rue Amelot, 75011
One of the buzzier spots in Paris. Small plates and a lot of modern takes on French classics (i.e. Pithivier which is a fancy meat pie).
Le Servan
32 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris, France
Modern French with small plates and some Asian influence. Favorite of David Chang.
Le Comptoir du Relais
9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006
The big sister to the L’Avant Comptoir places nearby so plan accordingly. I went here for lunch (there was a *gulp* six month wait for dinner) but the food was fantastic, very French but not in a stuffy way, highly recommend it.
Le Chateaubriand
129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011
When people ask me about a favorite meal, this place usually comes to mind. It’s run by Iñaki Aizkiparte and they do a set menu with some really creative food. There are a bunch of great places nearby so if you strike out here, no biggie.
Le Dauphin
131 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris, France
Tapas/wine bar from the Chateaubriand guys.
Frenchie
5 Rue du Nil, 75002
One of my favorites. They also have a wine bar across the street. Very tough rezzy.
Yam’tcha
121 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001
As seen on the Netflix show, Chef’s Table. French chef travels to Hong Kong, sparks fly. Their known for a tea service as well.
Le Baratin
3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020
A natural wine bar/bistro with a big following in the food world. It’s a bit out of the way–in Belleville near Parc des Buttes Chaumonts–but definitely worth the trek. The chef is an Argentine woman named Raquel Carena who reminds me of Judy Rogers from Zuni in SF. It definitely got the Bourdain (RIP) treatment back in the day, but I remember it having a pretty cool local clientele and appropriately aloof service. A favorite.
French Classics
Bistro Paul Bert
18 Rue Paul Bert, 75011
One of the classic French bistros with good steak frites. They have a seafood-focused place as well (L’Ecailler, see below). If you want a classic bistro experience, I’d try this place or La Bourse et la View, Chez La Vieille, or Cafe des Musées. It’s probably a 15-20 minute walk from Bastille and Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine is one of my very drags in the city.
L’Ecailler du Bistro
22 Rue Paul Bert, 75011
Chez La Vieille
1 Rue Bailleul, 75001
Another classic French bistro from Daniel Rose.
La Bourse et la Vie
12 Rue Vivienne, 75002
Old school bistro from American chef Daniel Rose, who used to own Spring (one of my favorite places in Paris, since departed).
Café des Musées
49 Rue de Turenne, 75003
One of my favorite places in Paris. Consistently delicious food at good prices. The prix fixe is a total steal. A favorite.
Chez Denise (La Tour de Montlhery)
5 Rue des Prouvaires, 75001
If you’re into offal (and I am), this is the place.
Wine Bars
Le Baron Rouge
1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 75012
Wine bar right near the Marché Aligre. I used to go here on Sundays during the winter and folks, let me tell you, it was a SCENE. The crowds would spill out onto the street and you’d see people with trays of oysters perched on top of parked cars, people drinking Crémant at 11am with a recycling bin as their table, that kinda thing. They have big barrels of wine inside and you could fill up a liter bottle with some pretty good plonk for 5 euro. Would not fly in the US for a variety of reasons, go!
Le Verre Volé
67 Rue de Lancry, 75010
OG wine bar off the Canal St. Martin
Bakeries & Patisseries & Coffee
Du Pain et des Idées
34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010
For my money, the best bakery in Paris. They do an amazing miche or country loaf that’s baked in a wood-fired oven so it has a smoky situation. Also, their escargot pastries are excellent.
Mokonuts
5 Rue Saint-Bernard, 75011
Hip new bakery/cafe known for pastries and cookies. Has quite the international following.
Le Moulin de Rosa
32 Rue de Turenne, 75003
This was my local bakery when I lived there. It’s very solid and a great option if you need something while you’re in the Marais.
Ten Belles
10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010
Coffee in Paris generally means terrible espresso, but this place is one of the better places to pop up in the last few years. They also have a bakery with good bread nearby.
Super Fancy
l’Astrance
4 Rue Beethoven, 75016
Pascal Barbot’s spot. Super fancy but have heard really good things.
l’Arpège
84 Rue de Varenne, 75007
Alain Passard’s restaurant known for some really creative vegetable dishes. There is a vegetarian and seafood tasting menu and they are both super expensive (dinner for 2 is going to be close to a thousand buckaroos). Also a somewhat polarizing place–you either get it or you…don’t.
Other Notable Places
Chez L’Ami Jean
27 Rue Malar, 75007
Basque bistro with serious portions, including the largest serving of rice pudding with salted caramel I have ever seen.
Saturne
17 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires, 75002
Another wine bar with small plates.
Verjus
84 Rue de Varenne, 75007
Cool place run by an American couple, known for their fried chicken which is probably not what you want to eat in Paris but no judgment yo. They most do tasting menus so if you want something more casual check out Ellsworth (see below)
Ellsworth
34 Rue de Richelieu, 75001
Le Rigmarole
10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 75011
Izakaya from an American chef.
Chez Omar
47 Rue de Bretagne, 75003
Moroccan brasserie, good couscous and lamb, funny waiters.
Au Coin des Gourmets
57 Rue Dante, 75005
Vietnamese in the Latin Quarter with some serious vegetarian spring rolls on the weekend.
Le Gaigne
12 Rue Pecquay, 75004
Small contemporary bistro with thoughtful, reasonably-priced food.
La Grande Mosqué de Paris
39 Rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, 75005
The cafe of a mosque in the Latin Quarter. A great find, delicious tagines and couscous. The terrace is a nice spot for some mint tea.
Itinéraires
5 Rue de Pontoise, 75005
Contemporary bistro that uses foams, squid ink, etc. Always interesting.
Marché des Enfants Rouges*
30 Rue de Bretagne, Paris 75003
There is a sandwich/crepe guy that is there on Wednesday and the weekend who makes great stuff.
Chez Taeko
30 Rue de Bretagne, 75003
Small Japanese place with good plat du jour in the Marché des Enfants Rouges
Robert et Louise
64 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
Authentic steak place, not too steep, everything cooked over a wood fire. A favorite.
Les Temps des Cerises
31 Rue de la Cerisaie, 75004
Charming local cafe in the Marais.
Ze Kitchen Gallerie
4 Rue des Grands Augustins, 75006
Creative Asian-influenced French food, a little trendy.
Outdoor Markets
Marché Bastille*
8 Boulevard Richard Lenoir, 75011
One of my favorite farmers markets with a lot of prepared foods. Keep an eye out for the chicken lady who sells poulet crapaudine (a grilled spatchcocked chicken). Open Thursday and Sunday.
Marché Aligre*
Rue d’Aligre et, Place d’Aligre, 75012
One of my old go-to’s. Open 6 days a week (closed Monday)
Marché President Wilson
Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116
Near the Palais du Tokyo. Wednesday & Saturday.
Marché Bio
Boulevard Raspail
Organic market on the left bank. Open Sunday.